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Types of Seams:Properties

Types of Seams:Properties

The sewing culture is almost like science…

“What we see and what we know about sewing seams is just an introduction to an extensive subject.” 

​Diving into the textile industry there are so many types of seams, it is quite hard to keep track of all of them!. However, the most important aspects to consider when we select seams are the same: their properties.

That is why today, we’ll be talking about the main properties of 17 groups of seams.

SEAMS PROPERTIES

​Sewing seams properties depends on 3 attributes:

  1. structure of the seam
  2. fabric
  3. type of stitch and topstitch

Types of Seams: Properties

 

1. CONSTRUCTION SEAMS
Construction Seams Properties

Felled SeamC100
  • Resistant, flexible and durable.
  • Suitable for almost any fabric (woven and knit) and either on straight or curved seams.
  • Inexpensive.
Bound Seam

C101

  • Strong and resistant.
  • Neat finish on the inside. The binding adds a decorative touch.
  • It works better on medium-weight fabrics.
French Seam

C010

  • Strong and durable.
  • Clean and neat finishing on the inside, giving a high-end touch to the garment.
  • It works better on light-weight fabrics.
 Welt Seam

C110

  • One of the strongest construction seams.
  • Clean finish on both sides.
  • It works better on straight seams.
  • Poor elongation recovery.
Lapped Seam

C120

  • Excellent flexibility and elongation recovery.
  • Suitable on straight and curved seams.
  • Good option to avoid thickness when using heavy-weight fabrics.
Open Seam

C200

  • Very flexible.
  • Good option to avoid thickness.
  • It suits to a wide variety of fabrics.
  • Good elongation recovery.
Sandwich Seam

CD190

  • Excellent resistance.
  • Clean finish on both sides.
  • Reversible.
  • It suits to a wide variety of fabrics.

2. HEMS AND FINISHES

Hems and finishing of Seams.Properties

Fold Hem

H110

  • The most popular hem on wovens.
  • Good resistance. Durable and strong.
  • Neat finishing on the inside.
    Suitable for almost any fabric.
 Bound Hem

H101

  • Very strong and resistant.
  • The binding prevents edge ravelling, stabilises the hem and adds a decorative touch.
  • Good choice to add weight.
 Faced Hem

H150

  • Durable and flexible.
  • Neat finishing on the inside.
  • It works better on wovens.
  • A piece of interfacing might be needed.
Binded Edge

H200

  • Durable and resistant.
  • The binding reinforces the edge, protecting it from fraying, and it adds a decorative touch.
  • Suitable for almost any fabric.
Exposed Band

H210

  • Good elongation recovery, especially if the band is made of knit fabric or cut on the bias.
  • The band can be used as a tunnel to add an elastic band.
  • It suits to a wide variety of fabrics.
 Unhemmed Edge

H000

  • Low-cost finishing.
  • Flexible.
  • Versatile: suitable for any fabric and either on straight or curved edges.
Sandwich Hem

HD190

  • Flexible and durable.
  • Neat finish on the inside.
    Excellent versatility.
  • It prevents edge ravelling.

 

3. DETAILS

Datials Types of Seams.Properties

Pleat

D110

  • Its main purpose is to give extra volume to the clothing or product.
  • Flexible and versatile.
  • Reversible.
Box Pleat

D111

  • It is a type of pleat, formed by two identical pleats that meet together.
  • It adds fullness to a garment.
  • Reversible.
Patch

D210

  • It gives more resistance and strength to the garment, or piece of fabric.
  • Durable and flexible.
  • Suitable for almost any fabric.

 

 

 

So, no more confusions to choose sewing constructions, finishes, and details!

Author of this article

0Belu Chi | Technical Designer
My mum taught me to sew when I was 15.
​I used to make skirts in every single colour, andt my girlfriends loved them! I later studied Industrial Design, specialized in clothing… and that’s where it all began.

Post in ABC Seams

 

The Dress is a style of Making Patterns Fly Making Patterns Fly

making patterns fly

 

 

 

 

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