The 10 key points of a seam
Before starting to examine the 10 key points of a seam, let’s start by describing what a seam is. The seam is the system of joining one or more pieces of fabric by a stitch. According to UNE 40.513, sewing is defined as the successive application of stitches or stitch types to one or several sheets of material.
Let’s start now to examine those ten points:
To begin with the sewing type must be appropriate to the work is going to be done. It must be adjusted to the type of garment and fabric in which it is to be made. The position it will occupy in the garment will be another factor will determine what type of seam is more suitable. Other conditioning factors will be the type of care projected for the garment, the quality assigned to it and its design.
The quality of the sewing thread must be adapted in composition, properties, color and thickness to those of the fabric. Likewise, the needle used must be selected in thickness and type of tip depending on the fabric and thread used.
The stitching used must be correctly adjusted in stitch length, elasticity and tension balanced to the type of seam and fabric.
The sewing machine must be adjusted so that the stitching does not show tensions, seam bray or puckering. The seam must have a flat appearance and must be regular.
The seam allowance must be kept regular and uniform throughout the seam. Unless it is required to cut seams to reduce the volume.
The seam allowance must be appropriate for the type and finish of the seam, thickness of the fabric and the design of the garment.
The intersection seams has to be aligned with each other.
The checked and stripes fabric have to be married at the seams when possible.
The sewing finishing must be appropriate for the sewing requirements type, knitting, care, use and quality required for the garment.
Finally the finish seams must be well ironed, without iron marks.
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