Interfacings, one for each occasion
The Interfacings are fabrics that cannot be seen. So they easily go unnoticed, little attention is paid. Its function is to reinforce, provide form and structure to certain parts of the garment. Its application modifies the touch and durability of it. At the same time it causes the fabric on which it is applied partially lose elasticity. Add that interfacing is not a single type of fabric, or a simple fabric. There is a wide variety of interlinings on the market with a specific use for each one. Let’s see what the main interlinings that are used are.
In tailoring a great variety of interlinings are used, whether fusing or sewn. The main interfacings are used are:
- Plastron: Polyester fabric, viscose, animal hair and wool that comes in a wide variety of weight. It has a very good rebound and recovery so it is used for the construction of plastrons, reinforcement of plastrons and sleeve heads.
- Tailoring canvas: Polyester fabric, viscose, animal hair and wool that comes in a wide variety of weight. It has a very good rebound and recovery so it is used for the construction of plastrons, reinforcement of plastrons and sleeve heads.
- Lightweight Domette: is similar to the plastron. Made in cotton weft or wool or both intertwined hair from different animals. It is also used for plastron. Having a softer feel is placed in the position closest to the body.
- Weave interfacing: Its composition is 100% cotton and its main function is to harden. There are fusing or sewing, closed or open weft. They are used as a base interfacing for the front side and the different pieces.
- Non-woven interfacing or paper friseline: Made from fibers randomly distributed and united in a single surface by chemical or thermal action. Characteristics of this type of fabric is that they are light and have no direction or uravel. Besides that they do not shrink and are low cost. Are used to reinforce certain areas of garment such as under armholes, back shoulders and especially for the low ones.
- Cotton tape. Thermo-adhesive cotton tape with a width of 3 to 5mm. which is used in the chanting of certain seams that require reinforcement at the time of preparation.
Skirt and trousers
- Pleated waistband: It is not a fabric it is a preassemble piece that is used to shape the waistband in the tailor trousers. Basically it consists in a special interfacing for waistband, outer fabric and a bias for finishing edge. It can be manufactured in different designs that change its appearance and reinforcement type. It is used in the manufacture of the interior waistband.
- Non-woven interlining or paper friselline: They are used as reinforcement of certain areas of the garment such as bottoms, pockets or openings.
Weave interfacing: They are used as a base for waist.
Shirt is another type of specialized clothing industry, especially for men. The basic interfacing used in this is weave interfacing. Used in different weights and stiff nesses. From a thicker to stiffer for the top collar and the outside cuff or other lighter for under collar band or inner cuff.
- In dressmaking where you are working with lighter fabrics, the most common interfacing used are:
- Organza: Silk or cotton fabric used as reinforcement fabric in garments made with very light fabrics. In addition of the reinforcement brings elegance to the garment.
- Muslin. Very open cotton fabric that is used as reinforcement in garments with a light or medium weight fabric.
- Knit or Fleece Interlining: Knit fabric suitable for fine fabrics. It is used to harden and give body at the same time. This is one of the most used interlinings due to its low cost.
For the knit garment, a fabric with elasticity, the interfacing used with it has to have also this characteristic.
These interfacings are the knitted interfacing.
Regardless of the type of manufacturing the interfacings can be according to their composition:
Low density polyethylene (LDPE): Designed for use in garments that have to be washed. They are low cost and give good results if the washing and drying conditions are respected. They are not advisable for fine and delicate fabrics or in garments that have to be wash dry.
High density polyethylene (HDPE): Are higher cost than the previous ones, they are used in those cases in which a strong adhesive power is required. Its use is appropriate in garments that have to be dry wash or in those that have to be dyed or subjected to special baths once made.
Polyester (PES): They are those that have a strong adhesive power and a lower shrinkage factor. They are used in dresses, shirts and blouses.
Polyamide (PA): Supports very well the heat and steam in secondary operations with what is very appropriate for use in tailoring.
The interfacings can also be permanent or temporary. Temporary are used as reinforce a sewing process, as in the case of embroidery processes. Within these there are paper, plastic film soluble in heat or washing.
On another occasion we will see the factors to take into account when choosing an interlining.